HANDCRAFTED FASHION USING HANDLOOM

 

As the name suggested handcraft fashion, clearly states that the form of art of clothes is constructed with hands with the help of handlooms. Handloom refers to wooden frames of different types which are used by skilled artisans to weave fabrics usually from natural fibers like Cotton, Silk, Wool, Jute, etc. 90 %of the handloom and handicraft of the world are created in India. India has a diverse cultural and religious belief invest in a different kind of handloom work which changes its style and art form from place to place and region to region, for example, Gujarat - textile handicraft and fabrics, Kashmir - woolen handicraft (pashmina shawls), Punjab - phulkari, etc. Right from spinning the yarn, coloring, to weaving on the loom if done by them. Fabric produced from these looms is also referred to as Handloom.

                                                                           

But the question is can this handicraft create a sense of proper fashion? Well, the answer is of course. Handicraft has been since there were no machines which include techniques like hand sewing, knitting braiding applique, etc which includes this to be a part of haute couture. Now because of machine-made clothes, these artisans were looking for their identity and also their only source of earning, as this has always been a family business for one who is involved in this. 

Handcrafted fashion, during the year 2019 has been provided with a boost by the Government of India. This boost will help artisans to grow, the private sector will directly source from handloom clusters and improving the economic opportunities for weavers and artisans as well as ensuring the age-old craft don't die. 

                                                              

Handloom is a beautiful fabric and special as no two fabrics can be alike. Of course, the output depends on the skill set of the weaver. But even if we make two weavers with similar skills weave the same fabric it will be different in one way or the other. Each fabric is a reflection of the weaver’s moods – when a weaver is angry the fabric would be a little tight while it would be lost when he is sad. Thus each piece is unique in itself.

In India, there are different styles of weaving in different parts of the country, and sometimes in the same region, there could be as wide a range as 20- 30 varied styles.  From simple plain fabrics, Tribal motifs, geometric designs, tye, and dye, to exhaustive art on muslin. Our weavers have been master craftspeople. No other country can boast of such an exclusive wide range of rich textile art, even today.

Just like paintings and photographs, each woven sari is a masterpiece. Saying that handloom must perish for its time consuming and laborious compared to power loom, is like saying painting, photography, clay modeling will go obsolete because of 3d printers and graphic designs

  DIFFERENCE 

What is Handloom?

A handloom is a type of loom used to weave cloth or patterns on cloth and is operated manually without the aid of electric power. What started as a mechanism to furnish necessities has become a specialized tool for the handcraftsman who specializes in furnishing art and luxury fabrics. The growing textile industry has created a vast demand for the handloom weavers which shaped much of the 19th-century cotton industry. No one exactly knows how or when weaving began, but the idea of weaving clearly predates the loom by at least thousands of years. However, the once commodity-generating sector is dying owing to the rise of more efficient modern looms such as power looms.

What is Powerloom?

A power loom is a type of mechanically powered loom driven by a steam engine or electric power used to weave cloth. It was not until the 1850’s that the power loom industry really came into the picture, owing to the rising demand for cotton and scarcity of production. Powerlooms are a major shift from the conventional handlooms that once dominated the textile industry. As they are mechanically powered, they work at least ten times faster than their handloom counterparts, thereby controlling much of the fabric market. However, a power loom can only replicate a limited variety of designs and patterns.

Different types of Indian Handloom Fabric Materials?

International fashion brands are establishing their way on the shelves of nearest malls and Indian Handloom Fabric has gradually lost its ground. In the last century, there has been increasing awareness regarding handloom Fabrics and August 7th has come to be called the National Handloom Day. Indian Handloom Fabrics are gradually making inroads into international fabrics and gaining significant fame. International fashion brands are gradually recognizing the various types of Indian Handloom Cotton Fabrics. The various types of handloom fabric can be categorized as:

Paithani silk from Maharastra :

                                  

Paithani is a variety of sari, named after the Paithan town in Aurangabad from the state of Maharashtra where the saree was first made by hand. Present-day Yeola town in Nashik, Maharashtra is the largest manufacturer of Paithani.

The Paithani is a grand saree known for its characteristic borders and the peacock design on the pallu. The rich-look Paithani sarees have a plain or spotted body, a characteristic square design with its variations on the colored borders with the typical Peacock adorning the pallu or end-piece. Known for the more popular kaleidoscopic variety that displays a fine shimmering effect on account of more than one color of silk thread being used in the weave, this fabric of pure silk and silver zari is not only costly but also a much sought after and prized possession on account of the richness.

Chanderi work from Madhya Pradesh

                                                   

The chanderi work from Madhya Pradesh is a prominent Indian Handloom Fabric. The chanderi work is traditional work from Madhya Pradesh and has a related mythological connection. It is said that Lord Krishna's cousin Shishupal introduced this work. This type of work is done on cotton and silk. This Handloom Fabric has been very well known since the Mughal period and it had earned itself the name of ‘woven air'.

Khadi from Bengal:

Khadi handloom from Bengal has earned its stature in the Indian Handloom Fabric industry. The hand-woven or machine-woven cloth is known for its light texture. Its capability to be cool during summers and keep warm during winters has won it international fame. Most importantly, the various natural dye used on the material for obtaining various colors reveals greater attractiveness of the fabric. The Handloom Fabric is widely worn and used not only in various parts of Bengal but also in parts of India and the entire world.

Muga Silk Assam:

Assam silk is well known as MUGA for its nice texture and durability. It is well known as "the golden fiber" as this silk has a natural yellow gold tint. It needs to be hand-washed and its luster increases with every wash. Muga was earlier reserved for royal use and now is acclaimed as one of the finest silk in the country. It is used to make traditional Assamese garments, the mekhla chador. Muga silk is one of the most proclaimed Indian Handloom Fabrics are known today.

Kanjeevaram from Tamil Nadu:

From the dozens of different Handloom Fabrics, a unique fabric is the Kanjeevaram Silk. The material is handwoven and there is no greater expensive silk found than Kanjeevaram. This handwoven fabric is made in the Kanchipuram region in Tamil Nadu and it is a famous silk saree from South India. It is especially known for the detailed zari work and uniqueness of fabric. Kanjeevaram sarees are known to use gold in their weaving process to date.

Sambalpuri from Odisha:

In Odisha, Ikat has been mastered the art of weaving on sambalpuri. Ikat weavers in Odisha work in a community such as the Bhulia or Meher, as they have inherited the art form over the years. Sambalpuri fabric is produced in Boudh, Bargarh, Sonepur, Belanger

The weavers have mastered the art over the years and currently, they are undertaking various methods to expert in the rich cultural heritage. The unique dyeing technique is being used to apply contemporary designs such as Bhoomi and Vraj. The Ikat design has gained quite some popularity and is woven on silk as well as on cotton. This traditional Indian Handloom Fabric has gained quite some importance in the Indian fashion industry.

Kalamkari from Andhra Pradesh:

                                   

The word Kalamkari hails from the Persian word ‘qalam' implying pen and ‘Kari' meaning craftsmanship. This famous Handloom Fabric from Andhra Pradesh represents great stories from Hindu mythology with the presence of Hindu deities. The saree is especially handloom made such that the work can be done and was used in the courts of Mughals. It is well known for its block prints on sarees, dupattas, and other materials as well.

Bandhani or tie and dye Patan Patola from Gujrat:

The handloom of Bandhani dates back to the ages of the Indus Valley Civilization. Dyeing was undertaken as early as 4000 BC. The name bandhani is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘banda' implying to tie. The art of this traditional Gujrati Handloom Fabric is made by tying and coloring using white. It is made traditionally by the Khatri community in Gujrat. It is made on cotton or silk textile and is found in various colors as red, black, yellow, green, blue, green, and many more. This handloom features white dot patterns that form interesting patterns on the fabric.

Patola sarees are today considered the ultimate weaving prowess. The artisans in Gujrat have achieved perfection in the weaving process over several centuries, in the Patan town of Gujrat. It is weaved into silk cloth by the use of a double Ikat pattern then the workers weave it into a Patola saree. It involves the extrinsic dyeing and weaving process which adds to the authentic exoticism of the fabric.

Bhagalpuri Silk from Bihar:

Bhagalpur in Bihar is well known for its silk weaving industry. Popularly it is known as the Silk City for over a century. Bhagalpur is Bihar is well-known for producing the finest quality of tussar silk with the handloom fabric being made from tussar cocoons. Bhagalpuri silk sarees are well-known throughout India and in various parts of the world for their luster, color, texture, and design.

Kosa Silk from Chhattisgarh:

The Kosa silk from Chhattisgarh derives its name from being desi tussar. It is made by the rarest silk weaving worm. It is extremely difficult to extract and weave Kosa silk sarees as it takes from three to five days. Kosa is silk that is popular in Chhatisgarh and it is extremely durable. The Kosa silk is considered to be one of the finest silk in the entire world and is produced in the Champa district of Chhatisgarh.

Kunbi from Goa:

This handloom fabric hails from one of the oldest tribes in Goa, the Kunbi. It is a cotton fabric draped like a saree below the knees by tribal women in the paddy fields. After Goa was invaded and occupied by the Portuguese, the usage of Kunbi sarees declined and almost halted till the 20th century. However, this Indian handloom fabric has been revived by designer Wendell Rodricks. He is trying various designer dresses and saree from the traditional Kunbi saree.

Brocades from Uttar Pradesh:

Benarasi sarees from Uttar Pradesh ranks as India's most prestigious precious handloom textile. Wearing a benarasi is considered as wearing a piece of art itself. The weavers and artists of Benarasi weave gold and silver metallic threads for creating exotic designs and delectable brocades. This handloom fabric is well-known globally and the high-quality weaving process has sustained itself through years of downturns in the Indian textile industry.

Lepcha from Sikkim:

Sikkim has various tribes, but the Lepcha tribe is the most well-known for its handloom tradition. The Lepcha handloom fabric is used for making traditional garments, shoulder bags, cushion covers, napkins, table mats, and many more things. The handloom fabric on which the matter is woven is the basic fabric of cotton or wool and motifs are then woven into this textile.

Kullu Shawls from Himachal Pradesh:

The Kullu shawls from the Himalayas are an integral part of the rich cultural heritage of Himachal Pradesh. Kullu shawls are handwoven from three different types of wool, Angora wool, Merino wool, and Local sheep wool. The shawls can be worn both by men and women. These shawls earlier did not have much design but now have come common design patterns of geometric shapes and done using bright colors. It is usually in high demand in India and foreign countries despite their high prices.

Pachachuli Weave from Uttarakhand:

The famous Panchachuli range in the Himalayas in the northeast of Uttarakhand is known for its beautiful peaks worldwide. The Tibetan rural women weave beautiful garments using sheep wool and Tibetan cashmere. Their livelihood depends on the sale of high-quality woolen products like stoles, shawls, wraps, sweaters, and other garments. The Panchachuli cooperative set-up in 1990 is promoting the sale of these materials in foreign countries also apart from selling in various parts of India.

Pachra fro Tripura:

The handloom fabric from Tripura is known as the Pachra. It is generally a long cloth piece, worn as a lower garment by women of the region. The handloom fabric has intricate stripes and embroidery using different colors and extends to just below the knee. The Pachra garment is worn with a risa, which is a short cloth covering the upper half of the body.

Naga Shawls from Nagaland:

Weaving is compulsory in the Naga tradition. Shawls from Nagaland are made by multiple numbers of tribes in the State. The Naga shawls are made primarily using black and red wool. Each Naga tribe has its distinct shawl patterns and some shawls have figures of tigers, human heads, elephant, cock, and spear depicting their age-old traditions.